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A Beginner's Guide to Choosing an Ice Axe

“Buying an [ice] axe should be the beginning of a long partnership.” - Godfrey Francis, Mountain Climbing, 1958

Beginning your journey into mountaineering and ice climbing can be daunting at times. When confronted with a wall of gear or a browser page full of options where to start? Well in the case of ice axes we've got you covered.

The Ice Axe

Ice axes fall into two groups. Mountain axes or piolets are the traditional longer handled tool that we see mountain climbers and even some hikers use depending on how difficult the terrain is. These mountain axes have retained their basic shape from the 19th-century alpenstock. Unlike the antique alpenstock, modern mountain axes are too short to be used as a walking stick. A great example of a modern mountain axe would be the Raven Ice Axe with Grip

The other group of ice axes is the ice tool. These axes are designed for ice climbing near vertical faces. Ice tools usually feature more aggressive picks and a more compact and curved handle. Ice tools are also used in pairs to climb with. To provide a visual example of how these can be different try comparing the Raven above to these ice tools by Black Diamond, the Cobra.  Or the Venom.

Anatomy of an Ice Axe

Here's a crash course of the anatomy of an ice axe so we are all on the same page when looking at different features.

• Head: the head of an ice axe is the meaty top of the axe. Similar to the head of a hammer there are two sides. One side is the pick that we will mention below, and the other is the hammer or adze. A hammer face is a less common option since you most of the time won't need to drive anything into the ice or rock. An exception to this is if you are doing ice climbing where you will need to drive anchors into the ice. The adze is a flattened hoe-like blade that can carve footholds or seats into ice and snow.
• Heads will also have a carabiner hole to attach a leash to. Yes, you will want a leash to keep you possibly attached to it; or the more likely option of avoiding it slipping out of your hand mid-swing.
• Pick: on a mountain axe the pick will be larger and much closer to perpendicular to the shaft. This allows the pick to be used for climbing as well as a support when tackling steep grades. On an ice tool, the picks are usually smaller and designed with an aggressive curve so that they can be swung in tighter arcs. The more open pick also stays free of debris better. Both of these reasons make sense when you imagine being halfway up the side of a glacier.
• Shaft: most shafts are made of either steel or aluminum. Steel is a bit heavier so most climbers prefer aluminum shafts for their blend of strength and weight. Some highly refined ice tools have carbon fiber shafts. These are incredibly light but come at a steep cost.
• Grip: many mountain axes and some ice tools come without an added grip. However, having a tool fit comfortably in your hand can be the difference between a good swing and a glancing blow. Take the time to feel how different grips feel in your hands both gloved and non-gloved.
• Spike: last but not least is the spike. The spike located at the end of the shaft below the handle serves as a point to drive into the terrain when using your axe as an anchor or just support. Since the spike is sharp make sure when you attach your axe to your bag that you don't poke yourself with it.

How to Buy Your Axe

Now you’ve seen two very different types of ice axes and know the parts of them. The next question is how to shop for them. Just like boots, goggles, or trekking poles your tools need to fit your body as well as the terrain. Many ice axes have replaceable heads so I don't suggest losing sleep over the head design. As we talked about above an adze head will be the most used option for your snowy climbs so select that one. Perhaps the most important feature to consider when shopping for an ice axe is the shaft length. While some climbers have a preference for longer or shorter shafts the average climber will be best served with a medium length. I know, I know, what is the medium length? The average length of the shaft is about 60cms. You can check your optimal length by grabbing a buddy and a measuring tape. Stand upright and relaxed, have your friend measure from your first knuckle down to just above your ankle. Since some axes have some curve in their shafts it is helpful to try this with the axes you plan on getting.

Hybrid Axes

One last tidbit of ice axe info for you. If your head is spinning trying to figure out if you can get into ice climbing but without buying another pair of tools there are some hybrid axes on the market. The Black Diamond Venom Adze/ Hammer. These axes are big enough to do most of the climbing you will need but still agile enough to be used as ice tools.

With the exciting world of mountaineering and climbing selecting gear can be half the fun. Doing your research and shopping through a trusted outfitter can make a world of difference. Especially when we are talking about gear that you may be ascending with. Remember to swing hard, and I’ll see you in the field.

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